Valentino (fashion house)

History

Early history

Valentino was founded in 1960, when Garavani opened a fashion house on Via Condotti in Rome, Italy, with the backing of his father and his father's associate Giancarlo Giammetti. In 1967 the maison established its headquarters at Palazzo Gabrielli-Mignanelli.

Rise to popularity

Valentino's international debut took place in 1962 in Florence, the Italian fashion capital of the time. Valentino gained popularity in 1967 after releasing their “no colour” collection which consisted of white, beige, and ivory apparels. The collection did not use any psychedelic patterns, a commonly used design feature during this time. The V logo was also introduced. In the years following the brand expanded to New York City and Ro The label staged the first Valentino menswear show at Milan Fashion Week in 1985.

Valentino has also, especially, designed wedding dresses for First Lady Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor, Anne Hathaway, Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Nicky Hilton, Courteney Cox, Sophie Hunter, Nicola Peltz Beatrice Borromeo, Queen Máxima of the Netherlands, Marie-Chantal, Crown Princess of Greece and Princess Madeleine of Sweden.

HdP Group, 1998–2002

In 1998, Garavani and Giammetti sold the company for approximately $300 million to the Holding di Partecipazioni Industriali (HdP), an Italian conglomerate controlled, in part, by the late Gianni Agnelli, the head of Fiat. HdP put Valentino inside the same unit as the apparel producer GFT Net and alongside the sportswear manufacturer Fila.

In 2001, Opera – a fund controlled by the Rome jewelry firm Bulgari – started talks to buy Valentino, but pulled out after it was unable to agree on a price.

Marzotto Apparel, 2002–2007

In 2002, Valentino S.p.A., with revenues of more than $180 million, was sold by HdP to Marzotto Apparel, a Milan-based textile giant, for $210 million. It was rumoured that HdP was displeased with Garavani's and Giammetti's personal expenses, a claim at which Giammetti has bristled.

The Marzotto family, which controlled Valentino through several holding companies, including Tidus Srl and PFC Srl, spun off its fashion assets in 2005 to create Valentino Fashion Group.

In 2006, Stefano Sassi was appointed CEO, replacing Michele Norsa. He would later be partially responsible for the brand's renaissance in the 2010s.

Permira, 2007–2012

From 2007, Valentino was controlled by private equity group Permira which had acquired the brand from the Marzotto Group for €2.6 billion ($3.5 billion). Later that year, Valentino and Giammetti announced that both would resign from the company in early 2008.

In 2007, Alessandra Facchinetti was named as the creative director of women's collections with Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli named as co-creative directors of the accessories. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took over Facchinetti's role the following year. Under their direction, Valentino introduced a modernised aesthetic that Vogue described as "fresh-faced girls in long, fragile dresses" and the success of the introduction of the "Rockstud" accessory line and "Rockrunner" sneakers.

In 2008, Valentino opened its first boutique in China, at the Peninsula Palace Hotel in Beijing. By December 2009, hit by the financial crisis, Valentino had to restructure its debt.

Mayhoola, 2012–present

In 2012, Qatari aristocrats acquired Valentino for €700 million through an investment vehicle called Mayhoola for Investments S.P.C. Mayhoola bought up both Permira's stake and Marzotto's minority interest.

In 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri left Valentino to join Dior as creative director with Pierpaolo Piccioli becoming the sole creative director. Under Picciolo's direction, the fashion house would shift towards a more progressive image. In 2019, Valentino championed diversity by starring Adut Akech and Anwar Hadid in their advertising campaign for their "Born in Roma" fragrance. In 2020, Valentino adopted a co-ed model – the merging of men's and women's shows – for its presentations, a decision that was reversed in 2023. In January 2022, Valentino presented their Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection on models with a diverse range of body types.

In 2020, Jacopo Venturini replaced Stefano Sassi as CEO. Under his leadership, the fashion house announced that it would no longer use alpaca wool and severed ties with Mallkini, the world's largest privately owned alpaca farm in Peru. The move followed revelations of animal abuse within the alpaca industry. This was followed by going fur-free in 2022.

Valentino also decided to shutter Red Valentino, the fashion house's diffusion line, in aims of focusing on the company's core ready-to-wear and couture divisions. Their Fall/Winter 2023 collection would be the last for the line.

In 2023, Valentino earned the Education of Excellence Award at the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards for fostering education in Italy.

Kering purchased 30% of Valentino in July 2023, they intend to purchase the entire company by 2028.

In March 2024, Valentino announced the departure of creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli, as a joint decision. Following his departure, Valentino announced the appointment of Alessandro Michele as the next creative director. Michele rose to global recognition for executing a turn-around at Gucci during the 2010s centring on a quirky androgynous aesthetic. In June 2024, Valentino released images of Michele's first designs for Resort 2025. His debut runway show was during Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2025. Critical response to the collection has centred on the clear through-line with Michele's work at Gucci.

On 15 May 2025, one of the company's units, Valentino Bags Lab, was placed under court judicial administration in Italy for a year after exposure of worker abuse going on at the company.

Other brands

Perfumes

Valentino's fragrances have included: Valentino Classique for women (1978), Vendetta By Valentino for women (1991), Very Valentino for women (1998), Very Valentino for Men (1999), Valentino Gold for women (2002), V for women (2005), Valentino V Absolu for women (2006), Valentino V Ete By Valentino for women (2006), Rock'n'Rose for women (2006), V pour Homme for men (2006), Rock n' Rose Couture for women (2007), and Valentina for women (2011).

In 2020, Valentino Beauty announced the release of a new perfume, Voce Viva, and announced Lady Gaga as its égérie.

From 2010 to 2018, Valentino Perfumes was licensed to Puig. Since then, it has been working with L'Oréal.

Eyewear

In addition to L’Oréal for beauty and fragrances, Valentino has only one other licence, for eyewear. For years, it worked with Marchon Eyewear and Luxottica (2017–2021). In 2021, the label signed a 10-year licence agreement with the Switzerland-based Akoni Group for the design, manufacture and worldwide distribution of the brand's prescription frames and sunglasses.

Red Valentino

In 2003, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, then accessories directors, launched a younger diffusion line called Red Valentino. Initially licensed to Sinv SpA, Valentino brought the line’s production in-house in 2009. By 2015, Red Valentino accounted for around 10 percent of Valentino Group’s sales. The line was discontinued in 2022.

Governance

CEOs

• 2002–2006: Michele Norsa
• 2006–2020: Stefano Sassi
• Since 2020: Jacopo Venturini

Creative directors

• 1959–2007: Valentino Garavani
• 2007–2008: Alessandra Facchinetti
• 2008–2016: Maria Grazia Chiuri (alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli)
• 2008–2024: Pierpaolo Piccioli
• Since 2024: Alessandro Michele

Financial data

Notable campaigns

For its advertisement campaigns, Valentino has in the past worked with photographers including Deborah Turbeville (2011) Terry Richardson (2016), Inez and Vinoodh (2020), Michael Bailey-Gates (2022) and Glen Luchford (2025).

For Valentino's Spring/Summer 2016 women's ready-to-wear collection, which referenced African culture, sporting prints and motifs commonly seen across the continent, photographer Steve McCurry shot a campaign set against the backdrop of Amboseli National Park in Kenya and included local Maasai people. The campaign sparked criticism on social media regarding perceived racial insensitivities.

Legal issues

In 2020, Valentino and Amazon filed a joint lawsuit against New York-based Kaitlyn Pan Group for allegedly counterfeiting Valentino's Rockstud shoes and offering them for sale online.

Amid the COVID-19 pandemic in the United States, Valentino sought in June 2020 to end the lease for its American flagship on New York's Fifth Avenue nine years early, saying the pandemic made it impossible to run the store "consistent with the luxury, prestigious, high-quality reputation" of its neighbourhood. After a New York state trial judge dismissed that lawsuit, the landlord sued Valentino for $207.1 million, mainly to recover unpaid rent and to repair store damage. By 2023, Valentino settled litigation with the landlord.

References

References

1. [https://boutiques.valentino.com/directory Valentino store directory] {{Webarchive. link. (26 March 2023 .)
2. Tyrnauer, Matt. (8 May 2009). "So Very Valentino". [[Vanity Fair (magazine).
3. (20 September 2020). "La storica sede di Valentino apre le sue porte: un tour virtuale a Palazzo Mignanelli".
4. Boze Hadleigh. (15 September 2015). "492 Great Things About Being Italian". Skyhorse.
5. Elisa Anzolin (16 June 2023), [https://www.reuters.com/lifestyle/valentino-returns-milan-fashion-week-with-flowery-menswear-show-2023-06-16/ Valentino returns to Milan Fashion Week with flowery menswear show] ''[[Reuters]]''.
6. [https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/brides/g39674192/valentino-wedding-dresses/ Famous brides who have married in Valentino]
7. "12 Celebrities Who Wore Valentino Wedding Dresses".
8. Robert Galbraith (15 January 2002), [https://www.nytimes.com/2002/01/15/news/italian-group-eager-to-sell-off-valentino.html Italian Group Eager to Sell Off Valentino] {{Webarchive. link. (30 January 2025 ''[[International Herald Tribune]]''.)
9. "Corporate Companies".
10. (2007-11-23). "Michele Norsa, chief executive, Salvatore Ferragamo Italia". The New York Times.
11. Claudia Cristoferi and Rachel Sanderson (18 May 2007), [https://www.reuters.com/article/us-valentino-permira-idUSL1715645620070518 Permira closes in on fashion house Valentino] {{Webarchive. link. (21 June 2023 ''[[Reuters]]''.)
12. Kaiser, Amanda. (2006-12-14). "Valentino Appoints Stefano Sassi for CEO".
13. Amed, Imran. (6 April 2014). "Stefano Sassi on Valentino's Turnaround".
14. [[Suzy Menkes]] (5 September 2007), [https://www.nytimes.com/2007/09/05/business/05fashion.html Valentino and Partner Will Be Leaving His Fashion House] {{Webarchive. link. (22 June 2023 ''[[New York Times]]''.)
15. Socha, Alessandra Ilari,Miles. (2007-09-06). "Alessandra Facchinetti Takes Reins at Valentino".
16. W. W. D. Staff. (2008-10-03). "Facchinetti Exiting Valentino".
17. Mower, Sarah. (2015-05-27). "The Valentino Effect: How Two Unsung Designers Redefined the Look of Rome and Won the CFDA International Award".
18. Amed, Imran. (6 April 2014). "Stefano Sassi on Valentino's Turnaround".
19. Jo Winterbottom (17 January 2008), [https://www.reuters.com/article/industry-fashion-valentino-dc-idUSL1782990220080117 Italy's Valentino opens first outlets in China] {{Webarchive. link. (21 June 2023 ''[[Reuters]]''.)
20. Lisa Jucca and Simon Meads (12 July 2012), [https://www.reuters.com/article/uk-valentino-quatar-idUKLNE86B00D20120712 Qatari royal family buys Italian fashion house Valentino] {{Webarchive. link. (21 June 2023 ''[[Reuters]]''.)
21. (12 July 2012). "Qatari royals buy Italian fashion icon Valentino". [[Reuters]].
22. John Hooper (12 July 2012), [https://www.theguardian.com/world/2012/jul/12/valentino-slips-italian-hands-qatari Valentino slips from Italian hands] ''[[The Guardian]]''.
23. Arabia, Vogue. (2020-04-22). "Adut Akech and Anwar Hadid launch the new Valentino perfume Born in Roma".
24. Socha, Miles. (2022-01-26). "Valentino Couture Spring 2022".
25. Zargani, Luisa. (2020-05-12). "Valentino Appoints Jacopo Venturini as CEO".
26. Sarah Maisey,"[https://www.thenationalnews.com/lifestyle/fashion/valentino-and-prada-to-halt-use-of-alpaca-wool-and-kangaroo-leather-1.1064620 Valentino and Prada to halt use of alpaca wool and kangaroo leather]," ''The National'' 17 August 2020.
27. Elisa Anzolin (24 April 2023), [https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/valentino-sales-up-10-2022-boosted-by-directly-owned-shops-2023-04-24/ Valentino sales up 10% in 2022 boosted by directly-owned shops] {{Webarchive. link. (21 June 2023 ''[[Reuters]]''.)
28. (19 June 2023). "The CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards 2023".
29. (26 September 2023). "Milan's Sustainable Fashion Awards Take Centre Stage At La Scala".
30. (2023-07-27). "Kering buys 30% of Italy's Valentino as Gucci sales lag". Reuters.
31. Kansara, Vikram Aleksei. (2024-03-22). "Pierpaolo Piccioli Is Exiting Valentino".
32. Zargani, Luisa. (2024-03-28). "Valentino Confirms Alessandro Michele as Creative Director".
33. Zargani, Luisa. (2024-03-28). "Valentino Confirms Alessandro Michele as Creative Director".
34. Zargani, Luisa. (2024-06-17). "Alessandro Michele Surprises, Unveiling First Designs for Valentino in Resort Collection".
35. Friedman, Vanessa. (30 September 2024). "Alessandro Michele's Debut Show for Valentino: It's All Him".
36. Parodi, Emilio. (15 May 2025). "Valentino unit put under court administration over labour exploitation".
37. "Perfume Intelligence – the Encyclopaedia of Perfume".
38. "V pour Homme Valentino – for the Charismatic Man TheScentualist".
39. (2013). "Valentino". Infobase Learning.
40. "Valentino Valentina". fragrantica.com.
41. Yaptangco, Ariana. (2020-07-10). "Lady Gaga Is the Face of Valentino Beauty's New Perfume".
42. (11 January 2012). "Puig talks with Permira to buy Valentino". La Vanguardia.
43. Shannon Barbour (29 May 2018), [https://www.thecut.com/2018/05/loreal-valentino-sign-beauty-licensing-agreement.html L’Oréal Inks Major Deal With Valentino] {{Webarchive. link. (21 June 2023 ''[[New York (magazine)). The Cut]]''.
44. Luisa Zargani (1 December 2021), [https://wwd.com/feature/valentino-luxottica-eyewear-license-ending-1235006919/ Valentino, Luxottica Eyewear License Ending in June] {{Webarchive. link. (21 June 2023 ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.)
45. Luisa Zargani (2 December 2021), [https://wwd.com/accessories-news/eyewear/valentino-signs-eyewear-license-akoni-group-1235007579/ EXCLUSIVE: Valentino Signs Eyewear License With Akoni Group] {{Webarchive. link. (21 June 2023 ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.)
46. Alessandra Turra (15 October 2012), [https://wwd.com/feature/valentinos-dreamy-side-6405840-505915/ Red Valentino Taps Into Brand’s Dreamy Side] {{Webarchive. link. (7 January 2024 ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.)
47. Alessandra Turra (18 September 2015), [https://wwd.com/feature/red-valentino-unveils-web-site-10231520/ Red Valentino Unveils Web Site] {{Webarchive. link. (7 January 2024 ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.)
48. (7 July 2016). ""V" is for Victory".
49. (7 July 2016). "Maria Grazia Chiuri & Pierpaolo Piccioli: Eight years at Valentino".
50. Zargani, Luisa. (2016-07-07). "Valentino Confirms Maria Grazia Chiuri's Exit, Appoints Pierpaolo Piccioli Creative Director".
51. (28 March 2024). "Valentino: Alessandro Michele est nommé directeur créatif".
52. "Valentino nomme Alessandro Michele en tant que directeur artistique".
53. (28 March 2024). "Alessandro Michele est nommé directeur artistique de Valentino".
54. Schulz, Madeleine. (2024-04-23). "Valentino 2023 sales slip 3% in 'challenging global context'".
55. Cynthia Martens (21 December 2011), [https://wwd.com/feature/say-ole-5438290-757290/ Valentino Taps Deborah Turbeville] {{Webarchive. link. (7 January 2024 ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.)
56. Elisabetta Povoledo (1 October 2016), [https://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/02/fashion/paris-fashion-week-valentino-pierpaolo-piccioli.html At Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli on His Own] {{Webarchive. link. (7 January 2024 ''[[New York Times]]''.)
57. Baya Simons (22 September 2020), [https://www.ft.com/content/8f691b85-7afe-43ea-b176-489c75564fb4 Valentino’s new fragrance is an ode to Lady Gaga] {{Webarchive. link. (7 January 2024 ''[[Financial Times]]''.)
58. Luisa Zargani (2 May 2022), [https://wwd.com/business-news/media/valentino-launches-new-ad-campaign-photographed-london-1235168240/ Valentino Launches Ad Campaign Photographed in London] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
59. Luisa Zargani (3 September 2025), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/valentino-alessandro-michele-glenn-luchford-fall-2025-campaign-1238101649/ EXCLUSIVE: Alessandro Michele Explores Intimacy and Identity in Valentino’s Fall 2025 Campaign] {{Webarchive. link. (8 September 2025 ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.)
60. Marysa Greenawalt (16 February 2016), [https://time.com/4224900/steve-mccurry-valentino-ad-campaign/ Behind Steve McCurry’s Valentino Ad Campaign] {{Webarchive. link. (22 June 2023  ''[[Time (magazine)). Time]]''.
61. Agnieszka Flak (18 June 2020), [https://www.reuters.com/article/ctech-us-valentino-amazon-lawsuit-idCAKBN23P2M3-OCATC Amazon and Valentino file joint lawsuit over shoe counterfeiting] {{Webarchive. link. (21 June 2023  ''[[Reuters]]''.)
62. Jonathan Stempel (4 April 2023), [https://www.reuters.com/legal/government/valentino-settles-litigation-over-pandemic-shuttered-manhattan-boutique-2022-04-04/ Valentino settles litigation over pandemic-shuttered Manhattan boutique] {{Webarchive. link. (21 June 2023  ''[[Reuters]]''.)