Portsmouth, New Hampshire

History

European settlement

The first European to explore and write about the area was Martin Pring in 1603. The Piscataqua River is a tidal estuary with a swift current, but forms a good natural harbor. The west bank of the harbor was settled by European colonists in 1630 and named Strawbery Banke, after the many wild strawberries growing there. The village was protected by Fort William and Mary on what is now New Castle Island. Strategically located for trade between upstream industries and mercantile interests abroad, the port prospered. Fishing, lumber and shipbuilding were principal businesses of the region.

Colonial development and slavery

Enslaved Africans were imported as laborers as early as 1645 and were integral to building the city's prosperity. Portsmouth participated in the Triangle Trade, which generated profits from slavery.

At the town's incorporation in 1653, it was named "Portsmouth" in honor of the colony's founder, John Mason. He had been captain of the English port of Portsmouth, Hampshire, after which New Hampshire is named. Richard Martyn was one of the founders of the first church in Portsmouth, and served as Selectman, Representative to the General Court, Speaker of the House, and Chief Justice.

When Queen Anne's War ended in 1712, Governor Joseph Dudley selected the town to host negotiations for the 1713 Treaty of Portsmouth, which temporarily ended hostilities between the Abenaki Indians and the colonies of Massachusetts Bay and New Hampshire.

American Revolution

In 1774, in the lead-up to the Revolution, Paul Revere rode to Portsmouth warning that the British Royal Navy was coming to capture the port. Although Fort William and Mary protected the harbor, the Patriot government moved the capital inland to Exeter to avoid threats from the Royal Navy, which bombarded Falmouth (now Portland, Maine) on October 18, 1775. Portsmouth served as a destination for several of Beaumarchais's ships containing materiel, such as artillery, tents, and gunpowder, to support the American revolutionary effort.

African Americans participated in defending Portsmouth and New England during the war. In 1779, 19 enslaved African Americans from Portsmouth wrote a petition to the state legislature requesting the abolition of slavery, citing their war contributions and the principles of the Revolution. The legislature tabled their petition. New Hampshire abolished slavery in 1857, by which time the institution was effectively extinct in the state.

When New Hampshire voted to ratify the new U.S. Constitution in 1788, it became the ninth and decisive state needed to establish the federal government. Portsmouth celebrated this historic moment with a grand parade featuring representatives from 78 different trades, reflecting the city's economic diversity and national significance.

19th century development

Thomas Jefferson's 1807 embargo against American trade with Britain severely disrupted New England's trade with Canada, causing several local businessmen to go bankrupt. Portsmouth hosted numerous privateers during the War of 1812. In 1849, Portsmouth was incorporated as a city.

Once one of the nation's busiest ports and shipbuilding cities, Portsmouth expressed its wealth through fine architecture. The city features significant examples of Colonial, Georgian, and Federal style houses, some of which now serve as museums. Portsmouth's downtown core consists of stately brick Federalist stores and townhouses, built uniformly after devastating early 19th-century fires. The most destructive fire occurred in 1813 when 244 buildings burned. A fire district was subsequently created that required all new buildings within its boundaries to be built of brick with slate roofs, creating the downtown's distinctive appearance. The city was also noted for producing boldly wood-veneered federal-style (neoclassical) furniture, particularly by master cabinet maker Langley Boardman.

The Industrial Revolution spurred economic growth in New Hampshire mill towns such as Dover, Keene, Laconia, Manchester, Nashua and Rochester, where rivers provided water power for mills. This shift in economic activity to the new mill towns led to Portsmouth's port declining, though the city survived the Victorian-era economic downturn, a period described in the works of Thomas Bailey Aldrich, particularly in his 1869 novel The Story of a Bad Boy.

20th century preservation and urban renewal

In the 20th century, the city established a Historic District Commission to protect much of the city's architectural legacy. In 2008, the National Trust for Historic Preservation named Portsmouth one of the "Dozen Distinctive Destinations".{{Cite web |access-date=August 27, 2010

Military developments

During World War II, Portsmouth Municipal Airport was expanded and converted to military use, eventually becoming Pease Air Force Base in 1956. Named after New Hampshire Medal of Honor recipient Captain Harl Pease Jr., the Strategic Air Command facility housed nuclear bombers including the renowned 509th Bomb Wing during the Cold War era. The base served as a crucial component of America's nuclear deterrent until its closure in 1991 under the Base Realignment and Closure process.

The Portsmouth Naval Shipyard's contribution to submarine technology advanced significantly with the construction of the experimental USS Albacore in 1953. This revolutionary research submarine pioneered the teardrop hull design that became standard for all modern submarines and set world underwater speed records during its service until 1972. The vessel was designated a National Historic Landmark and returned to Portsmouth as a museum in 1985.

Urban renewal and preservation

The city's emphasis on historic preservation and revitalization emerged from a period of significant destruction. Portsmouth's current walkable character results from its network of streets and dense blocks filled with preserved Revolution-era homes. However, like many cities throughout the region and nation, Portsmouth experienced urban renewal, a federally funded planning initiative designed to address "urban blight" and revitalize downtown cores after decades of suburbanization and declining tax revenue. Portsmouth's urban renewal district encompassed the North End neighborhood, which, similar to Boston's North End, was home to a significant Italian-American population.{{cite web |url=https://buildingsofnewengland.com/tag/urban-renewal-portsmouth-nh/|title=URBAN RENEWAL PORTSMOUTH NH |access-date=July 22, 2023

In 1964, federal funds were allocated to the North End project area for urban renewal. Prior to redevelopment, the North End contained a mix of residential and commercial buildings, with many older houses converted into storefronts with apartments above. By the mid-1960s, the area was considered overcrowded, deteriorated, and a fire hazard. The Portsmouth Housing Authority proposed demolishing approximately 200 buildings, a school, and a church, with redevelopment planned for commercial, industrial, and public use rather than residential purposes. The project would have displaced approximately 300 families. In 1968, Portsmouth Preservation Inc., a preservation organization, was formed to save some of the historic building stock slated for redevelopment. After extensive advocacy efforts, only fourteen houses were saved and mostly relocated to an area now known as "The Hill". This preservation effort marked the beginning of broader initiatives that eventually led to the creation of the aforementioned historic district.

Shipbuilding heritage

Portsmouth's shipbuilding history has maintained a long symbiotic relationship with Kittery, Maine, across the Piscataqua River. In 1781–1782, naval hero John Paul Jones lived in Portsmouth while supervising construction of his ship Ranger, which was built on nearby Badger's Island in Kittery. During that time, he boarded at the Captain Gregory Purcell house, which now bears Jones' name as the only surviving property in the United States associated with him. Built by master housewright Hopestill Cheswell, an African American,{{cite book |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160810234657/http://www.upne.com/1584652896.html |archive-date=2016-08-10 |access-date=2009-07-27 |url-status=usurped

The Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, established in 1800 as the first federal navy yard, is located on Seavey's Island in Kittery, Maine.{{Cite web |access-date=August 27, 2010

Geography

According to the United States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of 43.6 sqkm, of which 40.6 sqkm are land and 3.0 sqkm, or 6.92%, are water. Portsmouth is drained by Berrys Brook, Sagamore Creek and the Piscataqua River, which is the boundary between New Hampshire and Maine. The highest point in the city is 110 ft above sea level, within Pease International Airport.

Climate

According to the Köppen Climate Classification system, Portsmouth has a warm-summer humid continental climate, abbreviated "Dfb" on climate maps. The hottest temperature recorded in Portsmouth was 104 F on August 2, 1975, while the coldest temperature recorded was -26 F on January 22, 1984.

|Jan record high F = 71 |Feb record high F = 75 |Mar record high F = 89 |Apr record high F = 94 |May record high F = 94 |Jun record high F = 97 |Jul record high F = 102 |Aug record high F = 104 |Sep record high F = 96 |Oct record high F = 88 |Nov record high F = 78 |Dec record high F = 75

|Jan avg record high F = 55.3 |Feb avg record high F = 56.8 |Mar avg record high F = 66.0 |Apr avg record high F = 81.2 |May avg record high F = 88.1 |Jun avg record high F = 91.3 |Jul avg record high F = 93.6 |Aug avg record high F = 92.0 |Sep avg record high F = 88.3 |Oct avg record high F = 78.4 |Nov avg record high F = 68.9 |Dec avg record high F = 57.8 |year avg record high F = 95.3

|Jan avg record low F = -4.2 |Feb avg record low F = -1.2 |Mar avg record low F = 6.4 |Apr avg record low F = 22.7 |May avg record low F = 31.1 |Jun avg record low F = 41.2 |Jul avg record low F = 49.4 |Aug avg record low F = 47.5 |Sep avg record low F = 35.4 |Oct avg record low F = 26.4 |Nov avg record low F = 16.1 |Dec avg record low F = 4.8 |year avg record low F = -6.9

|Jan record low F = -26 |Feb record low F = -15 |Mar record low F = -8 |Apr record low F = 10 |May record low F = 15 |Jun record low F = 32 |Jul record low F = 38 |Aug record low F = 33 |Sep record low F = 23 |Oct record low F = 14 |Nov record low F = -6 |Dec record low F = -17

|Jan snow depth inch = 11.0 |Feb snow depth inch = 12.5 |Mar snow depth inch = 11.2 |Apr snow depth inch = 2.1 |May snow depth inch = 0.0 |Jun snow depth inch = 0.0 |Jul snow depth inch = 0.0 |Aug snow depth inch = 0.0 |Sep snow depth inch = 0.0 |Oct snow depth inch = 0.0 |Nov snow depth inch = 0.8 |Dec snow depth inch = 8.4 |year snow depth inch = 17.9

|access-date = March 17, 2024 |access-date = March 17, 2024 |access-date = March 17, 2024

Demographics

Portsmouth is the sole city in Rockingham County, but the fourth-largest municipality, with fewer people than the towns of Derry, Londonderry, and Salem.

As of the census of 2010, there were 21,233 people, 10,014 households, and 4,736 families residing in the city. The population density was 1,361.1 /mi2. There were 10,625 housing units at an average density of 681.1 /mi2. The racial makeup of the city was 91.5% White, 1.7% African American, 0.2% Native American, 3.5% Asian, 0.01% Pacific Islander, 0.7% some other race, and 2.3% from two or more races. Hispanic or Latino of any race were 2.8% of the population.

There were 10,014 households, out of which 20.2% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 35.5% were headed by married couples living together, 8.3% had a female householder with no husband present, and 52.7% were non-families. 39.2% of all households were made up of individuals, and 11.8% were someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.03, and the average family size was 2.75.

In the city, the population was spread out, with 16.6% under the age of 18, 7.7% from 18 to 24, 32.2% from 25 to 44, 27.6% from 45 to 64, and 15.9% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 40.3 years. For every 100 females, there were 94.2 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 92.6 males.

For the period 2010–2014, the city's estimated median annual household income was $67,679, and the median family income was $90,208. Male full-time workers had a median income of $58,441 versus $45,683 for females. The city's per capita income for the city was $42,724. About 4.0% of families and 7.6% of the population were below the poverty line, including 6.9% of those under age 18 and 7.1% of those age 65 or over.

Economy

Heinemann USA is based in Portsmouth. Before its dissolution, Boston-Maine Airways (Pan Am Clipper Connection), a regional airline, was also headquartered in Portsmouth.{{Cite web |access-date=August 27, 2010 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20070111211702/http://www.flypanam.com/contact.html |archive-date= January 11, 2007}}

Top employers

According to the city's 2020 Comprehensive Annual Financial Report, the top ten employers in the city are:

Arts and culture

The Portsmouth Downtown Historic District encompasses the city's historic urban core and Market Square. The city has a vibrant restaurant culture. In 2023, it was reported that the city had 36,000 restaurant seats for a population of 22,000.

Sites of interest

• USS Albacore Museum & Park – a museum featuring the USS Albacore, a U.S. Navy submarine used for testing, which was decommissioned in 1972 and moved to the park in 1985. The submarine is open for tours.
• Buckminster House – built in 1725, formerly a funeral parlor.
• Cabot Lyford four public sculptures – including "The Whale" and "My Mother the Wind," a seven-ton blank granite statue which was installed on Portsmouth's waterfront in 1975.
• [[File:Gilley's Diner (interior), Portsmouth, NH - January 2025.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Interior of Gilley's Diner]] Gilley's Diner – Known as Portsmouth's original diner, established in 1912 as a horse-drawn lunch wagon, and now housed in a 1940s lunch cart permanently located at 175 Fleet Street.
• The Music Hall – a 900-seat theater opened in 1878.
• New Hampshire Theatre Project – founded in 1986, a non-profit theater organization producing contemporary and classical works, and offering educational programs.{{Cite web |access-date=August 27, 2010
• North Church – historic church, the steeple of which is visible from most of Portsmouth
• The Player's Ring Theater – a black-box theater that produces original work from local playwrights.
• Pontine Theatre – produces original theater works based on the history, culture and literature of New England at their 50-seat black box venue.
• Portsmouth African Burying Ground – a memorial park and the only archeologically verified 18th-century African burying ground in New England.
• Portsmouth Athenæum – a private membership library, museum and art gallery open to the public at certain times.
• Portsmouth Harbor Lighthouse – first established in 1771, the current structure was built in 1878 and is open for monthly tours from May through September.
• Portsmouth Historical Society – founded in 1917, includes museum galleries, a gift shop, welcome center, walking tours, and operates the John Paul Jones House.{{Cite web |access-date=April 20, 2023
• Prescott Park Arts Festival – summer entertainments in Portsmouth's waterfront park since 1974.
• Rockingham Hotel and the Library Restaurant – historic former hotel and contemporary restaurant. Built in 1885, it is a prominent early example of Colonial Revival architecture.
• Seacoast Repertory Theatre – founded in 1988, a professional theater troupe.{{Cite web |access-date=August 27, 2010
• Strawbery Banke Museum – a neighborhood featuring several dozen restored historic homes in Colonial, Georgian and Federal styles of architecture. The site of one of Portsmouth's earliest settlements.

Historic house museums

• Richard Jackson House (1664)
• John Paul Jones House (1758)
• Governor John Langdon House (1784)
• Tobias Lear House (1740)
• Moffatt-Ladd House (also called William Whipple House) (1763)
• Rundlet-May House (1807)
• MacPheadris-Warner House (1716)
• Wentworth-Coolidge Mansion (1750)
• Wentworth-Gardner House (also called Wentworth House) (1760)
• Henry Sherburne House (1766)

Sports

The Seacoast United Phantoms are a soccer team based in Portsmouth. Founded in 1996, the team plays in the Northeast Division of USL League Two (USL2), one of the unofficial fourth-tier leagues of the American Soccer Pyramid.

Freedom Rugby Football Club is a men's rugby union team based in Portsmouth, founded in the summer of 2014. The club is an active member of USA Rugby and New England Rugby Football Union (NERFU).

The New England Lightning of the American Basketball Association (ABA) have played at Portsmouth High School since 2024.

Government

The city of Portsmouth operates under a council-manager system of government. Portsmouth elects a nine-member at-large city council to serve as the city's primary legislative body. The candidate who receives the most votes is designated the mayor (currently Deaglan McEachern), while the candidate receiving the second-highest vote total is designated the assistant mayor (currently Joanna Kelley). While the mayor and council convene to establish municipal policy, the city manager (currently Karen Conard) oversees the city's day-to-day operations.

Portsmouth is part of New Hampshire's 1st congressional district, currently represented by Democrat Chris Pappas. Portsmouth is part of the Executive Council's 3rd district, currently represented by Republican Janet Stevens. In the State Senate, Portsmouth is represented by Democrat Rebecca Perkins Kwoka. In the State House of Representatives, Portsmouth is divided among the 25th through 31st Rockingham districts.

Politically, Portsmouth is a center of liberal politics and a stronghold for the Democratic Party. Ronald Reagan was the last Republican presidential nominee to carry the city in his 1984 landslide reelection. In 2016, Portsmouth voted 67.70% for Hillary Clinton in the presidential election, 62.53% for Colin Van Ostern in the gubernatorial election, 64.48% for Maggie Hassan in the senatorial election, and 62.16% for Carol Shea-Porter in the congressional election. In 2014, Portsmouth voted 70.05% for Maggie Hassan in the gubernatorial election, 67.34% for Jeanne Shaheen in the senatorial election, and 68.34% for Carol Shea-Porter in the congressional election. In 2012, Portsmouth voted 67.56% for Barack Obama in the presidential election, 70.16% for Maggie Hassan in the gubernatorial election, and 68.50% for Carol Shea-Porter in the congressional election.

In March 2014, Portsmouth became the first municipality in New Hampshire to implement protections for city employees from discrimination on the basis of gender identity, by a 9–0 vote of the city council.

Education

Tertiary institutions:

• Community College System of New Hampshire, Great Bay Community College – Portsmouth campus
• Franklin Pierce University – Portsmouth campus
• Granite State College – Portsmouth campus and on-site location at Great Bay Community College

Portsmouth School District is the public school district of the community.

Private schools:

• Saint Patrick Academy – Catholic K–8 school

Media

Print

• The New Hampshire Gazette
• The Portsmouth Herald

Radio

• WSCA-LP Portsmouth Community Radio 106.1 FM
• WHEB 100.3 FM rock formatted

Infrastructure

Transportation

The city is crossed by Interstate 95, U.S. Route 1, U.S. Route 4, New Hampshire Route 1A, New Hampshire Route 16, and New Hampshire Route 33. Boston is 55 mi to the south, Portland, Maine, is 53 mi to the northeast, and Dover, New Hampshire, is 13 mi to the northwest.

The Cooperative Alliance for Seacoast Transportation (COAST) operates a publicly funded bus network in the Seacoast region of New Hampshire and neighboring Maine including service in, to and from Portsmouth. C&J is a private intercity bus carrier connecting Portsmouth with coastal New Hampshire and Boston, as well as direct service to New York City. Wildcat Transit, operated by the University of New Hampshire, provides regular bus service to the UNH campus in Durham and intermediate stops. The service is free for students, faculty and staff and $1.50 for the general public. Amtrak's Downeaster train service, is available in Dover and Durham, nearby to the northwest. Allegiant Air offers scheduled airline service from Portsmouth International Airport at Pease (PSM).

Sister cities

Portsmouth's sister cities are:

• MAR Agadir, Morocco
• NIR Carrickfergus, Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
• GHA Kitase, Ghana
• JPN Nichinan, Japan
• EST Pärnu, Estonia
• RUS Severodvinsk, Russia

Portsmouth also has friendly relations with:

• ENG Portsmouth, England, United Kingdom
• ITA Santarcangelo di Romagna, Italy
• HUN Szolnok, Hungary

Notable people

Main article: List of people from Portsmouth, New Hampshire

References

References

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