Nap (fabric)

Piled nap

Since the 15th century, the term nap has generally referred to a special pile given to the cloth. The term pile refers to raised fibres that are there on purpose, rather than as a by-product of producing the cloth. In this case, the nap is woven into the cloth, often by weaving loops into the fabric, which can then be cut or left intact. Carpets, rugs, velvet, velour, and velveteen, are made by interlacing a secondary yarn through woven cloth, creating a nap or pile.

Raising the nap

In the finishing process of manufacturing textiles, after the cloth is woven, it goes through processes such as washing, fulling, raising the nap and trimming the nap. After the nap is trimmed, the fabric is considered finished. The raising process, which draws out the ends of the fibres, is done on both woollen and cotton fabric. Flannelette is a cotton fabric that goes through this process. There are ways to 'raise the nap', most of which involve wire brushes such as raising cards. Originally, dried teasel pods were used and were still preferred for use on woollen cloth for a long time. Woollen fabrics, which must be damp when raising the nap, are then dried and stretched before the nap is trimmed or sheared. Cotton cloth goes straight to the shearing process, where the nap gets trimmed to ensure that all the raised fibres are the same length.

Sueding and emerizing

Fabric sueding is carried out on a sueding machine with abrasive covered rollers; the machines can suede both sides of fabric, whether woven or knitted. Creasing and variations in the center selvedge are two major concerns with sueded fabrics. Fabrics that have been sueded or emerized are known as 'sueded fabrics' or 'emerized fabrics.'

Sueding

Sueding is a mechanical finishing process that exposes the material to an abrasive surface, creating a small, soft pile. The abrasion mechanism may be equipped with sandpaper, emery paper or carbon brushes.

Sueding action

The abrasive material on the machine's rollers cuts and shreds surface fibres, resulting in a soft texture with a short pile.

Trademarked sueded fabrics

Alcantara, Ultrasuede and Microsuede are a few of the many trademarked brand names for types of plush microfiber with a feel resembling soft suede; this type of material is more durable and resistant to liquids and stains, and can be used in upholstery, accessories, clothing or shoes.

References

References

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