Mount Stuart

Name

Mount Stuart was given its name by George B. McClellan in September 1853 in honor of his oldest and best friend, "the late Capt. Jas. [Jimmie] Stuart of the Rifles—a gallant soldier & accomplished gentleman." Stuart had died of an arrow wound on June 18, 1851, following a skirmish with Native Americans at the base of the Siskiyou Mountains in southwest Oregon.

Topography

Mount Stuart is more notable for its local relief than for its absolute elevation. For example, the south face rises 5000 ft in just 2 mi. The northeast and northwest sides of the mountain exhibit similar steep relief. Due to its location away from higher peaks, Mount Stuart has a topographic prominence of 5354 ft, making it the sixth most prominent in the state. The rock of Mount Stuart is rugged due to the extensive jointing of the granite. The north slopes of the mountain shelter three glaciers - Stuart, Ice Cliff and Sherpa Glaciers from west to east.

Climate

|access-date= September 28, 2023

Climbing history

It is not known for sure who made the first ascent of Mount Stuart. According to Fred Beckey: "Claude Rusk... was told by Frank Bryant of Yakima about finding a stick at the summit bearing the name `Angus McPherson—1873.' A. H. Sylvester, who climbed to the summit in 1897 and 1899 for triangulation, believed the first ascent was made by Frank Tweedy and Richard Goode during the Northern Pacific land survey." Tweedy (after whom Tweedy's pussypaws is named) climbed Mount Stuart on August 5, 1883, and two days later again with Goode (after whom Goode Mountain is named). They did not report finding evidence of an earlier ascent. Since the easiest route is not too technical, an earlier Native American ascent is also a possibility.

The standard route is the Cascadian Couloir up the southeast flank of the mountain, which ascends to a false summit just southeast of the main summit, and finishes along a short ridge. The route involves scrambling and often steep snow. Far more technical climbs are available on the complex north face and other aspects of the mountain.

References

References

1. {{cite peakbagger. 2182. Mount Stuart, Washington
2. {{cite ngs. SX1189. Mount Stuart
3. Howbert, Jeff. "Washington 100 Highest Peaks". The Northwest Peakbaggers Asylum.
4. Beckey, Fred. (2003). "Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey of the Northern Cascade Range". Oregon Historical Society Press.
5. Meany, Edmond Stephen, [https://journals.lib.washington.edu/index.php/WHQ/article/viewFile/6122/5196 Origin of Washington Geographic Names, Volum XI, page 217], The Washington Historical Quarterly, 1920
6. "Mount Stuart quadrangle, Washington". [[United States Geological Survey.
7. Howbert, Jeff. "All Washington Peaks with 2000 Feet of Prominence". The Northwest Peakbaggers Asylum.
8. Beckey, Fred W.. (1987). "Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol. 1, Columbia River to Stevens Pass". [[The Mountaineers (club).
9. John Roper, [http://www.rhinoclimbs.com/WA100HighestFAChronology.htm Washington's highest mountains first ascent chronology], 2004