Lobuche

Name confusion

Many of the tourist operators offering treks and climbs to Lobuje refer to the two peaks as "Lobuche East" and "Lobuche Far East". The NMA - who own the mountain - however, refer to them as Lobuche West and Lobuche East.

Notable ascents

In 1998, from September 29 to October 1, Slovenians Tomaž Humar and Janez Jeglič and Mexican Carlos Carsolio climbed a new route on Lobuche East's northeast face in Alpine style. They named the route "Talking About Tsampa" (V-VI, 5.9, WI4, 85°, 900m).

Along the strikingly prominent southwestern pillar of Lobuche East, several routes have been completed. On a 1991 expedition, Eric Brand and Pemba Norbu used fixed ropes to climb the west pillar to the northwest summit (VI, 5.10, A3). In 1995, Carlos Miguel and Eduard Sanchez also climbed the west pillar by a 6b+ route with one aid pitch. They intersected with the Brand-Norbu route halfway up. In 2010, Americans Joel Kauffman and Jarad Vilhauer climbed a new route on the southwest face of Lobuje East (6119m) in Nepal's Khumbu region on October 30. They established "Night Terrors" (VI, WI5+, AI4, M7, 85°) in a 37-hour push from advance base camp to the summit, and then descended to base camp via the normal route (south spur).

In 2010, Antonin Cecchini, Laurent Thévenot, Aurélien Vaissière, and Symon Welfringer arrived at Dzongla village and started climbing a route similar to the one used for the 1995 Spanish ascent (by Miguel-Miranda-Sanchez), which took them two long days to complete, after which they traversed from the true summit towards the false summit and then descended the mountain, reaching Dzongla by midnight (the descent took 5 and a half hours). They named the route "Le Quatuor à Cordes" (6b, A2, M4, 80°, 1,100m).

References

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References

1. "Lobuche".
2. "Lobuje West". Nepal Mountaineering Association.