Lapsang souchong

History

Lapsang souchong originated in the Wuyi Mountains during the Qing dynasty, although there are earlier examples of smoked teas. Purportedly, lapsang souchong was first created in 1646, as civilians in the Wuyi Mountain areas fled from Qing soldiers who were advancing through the area on their Manchu unification campaign against the Southern Ming.

The trade name later became lapsang souchong from the Fuzhou dialect: La ('pine') Sang ('wood') with souchong meaning 'small sort' referring to the leaves used. Before lapsang came into use, the term smoky souchong was used to describe this tea leaf. Lapsang souchong that is produced in Taiwan is often referred to as tarry lapsang souchong or lapsang souchong crocodile. The word souchong would later be integrated into the tea leaf grading system to refer to the fourth and fifth leaves which are the larger, broader leaves.

The British East India Company included Souchong teas as its common imports to colonial America.  In the Boston Tea Party, 35 chests of Souchong tea were destroyed.

Cultivation and processing

Lapsang souchong is typically made with the larger, coarser leaves of the Bohea cultivar of the Camellia sinensis plant. The Bohea cultivar has been bred to more readily absorb the smoke flavouring. The coarseness of the lower leaves also allows the smoke to more readily adhere to the leaf. The addition of the smoke flavour makes the lower concentration of aromatic compounds in these larger leaves, relative to the younger leaves and the bud, less relevant to the taste of the final product. However, any leaf may be used in the production of lapsang souchong, and, indeed, the young leaves and bud are used in Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong. Pinus taiwanensis is used for smoking, though other woods, such as cedar and cypress, are sometimes used as well.

Smoked lapsang souchong is manufactured similar to black tea but with an intermediary step of smoking or the addition of an artificial smoke flavour. There are several ways this smoking may be accomplished. The traditional means, referred to as Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong, is to entirely process the leaves within the smoke house, equivalent to a cold smoke, though most of the smoke flavouring is instilled during the final drying phase. The indoor withering is done with the leaves laid out on bamboo mats and turned at intervals, followed by a period of rolling to break cell walls and initiate oxidation. The leaves are transferred to cloth bags where they are allowed to oxidize for 5 to 6 hours with a quick pan-firing to the seal the cell walls and halt the oxidation. A second rolling (twisting) then occurs followed by 8 to 12 hours of drying in the presence of smoke.

Generic lapsang souchong uses a similar process but with leaves collected from more distant farms. These leaves are partially processed (e.g. partially withered or oxidized) after plucking and then transported to a centralized smoking facility where they are hot smoked. Smoking may also provide a means to create a marketable product from older or less flavourful leaves. Customization can be accommodated by varying the duration of the smoking or placement of a batch relative to the source of heat and smoke, in addition to the leaf selection. The smoke shed has several upper floors or lofts made of wooden slats where leaves can be laid out, allowing batches to be closer or farther from the source heat and smoke. In addition to Fujian, tea smoking facilities are also located in Taiwan where the lapsang souchong is known for being more heavily smoked.

Preparation, flavour and aroma

Like other black teas, lapsang souchong is typically brewed with water at boiling or a little less than boiling, 95 C. It can be infused once, for 3 to 5 minutes, with 2 to 3 grams (one tablespoon) of loose-leaf tea per 150 millilitres ( cup) of water used, or through multiple infusions using 5 grams for 30 seconds to one minute at a time in 110 millilitres of water.

The aroma of the dry leaves is described as having intense empyreumatic notes reminiscent of bacon while the liquor is known for its lingering smoky flavour. and peated whisky. Lapsang souchong lacks the bitterness that can come with other black teas, so it does not need to be sweetened and can be brewed strongly. It is a full-bodied tea that can be prepared with or without milk.

The aroma of lapsang souchong is derived from a variety of chemical compounds. The two most abundant constituents of the aroma are longifolene and α-terpineol. Many of the compounds making up the aroma of lapsang souchong, including longifolene, originate only in the pine smoke and are not found in other kinds of tea.

Tea blends and culinary uses

Lapsang souchong is used in blends of black tea to provide a more full-bodied flavour and a more robust aroma; for example, it may be blended with an Earl Grey tea. The blend called Russian Caravan consists of approximately 60% Keemun, 20% lapsang souchong and the remainder roasted oolong; the blend is intended to invoke thoughts of camel caravans en route from China to Russia in the 19th century delivering goods such as black tea which could absorb some of the campfire smoke during their months-long journey. In British culture, lapsang souchong has been popularly associated with Winston Churchill, who enjoyed the tea, but it is used more in Russian-labelled blends, especially those sweetened with spices and citrus.

With its wood-smoked flavour, lapsang souchong is also used as a spice for flavouring or seasoning foods. As well as being added to stock for soups, stews and sauces, lapsang souchong is also a spice in vegetarian recipes, a component in meat rubs, and a flavouring for boiled eggs. When prepared as a tea (rather than used as a seasoning), lapsang souchong pairs well with meals of tuna, cod, game, and eggs, or with brunch.

References

References

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