Kenzo (brand)

History

Kenzo Takada, 1970–1998

Kenzo Takada was born in Japan and moved to Paris in 1964 to start his fashion career. He then became known for using Asian influenced style with the construction of European fashion. He started with a 'Jungle Jap' boutique located at Galerie Vivienne and decorated in jungle inspired interior. He began with handmade women's clothing; reportedly, he made his first collection with $200 worth of fabrics bought at a large discount house in Montmartre. The brand became Kenzo after a fashion show in New York in 1976, as the American market considered 'Jungle Jap' too pejorative.

In 1983, Kenzo started designing men and then kids and home collections in 1987, followed by fragrances in 1988.

In 1990, following the death of his life partner, Xavier, and a stroke suffered by his business partner, Takada decided to sell the company.

In 1993, luxury-products maker LVMH acquired Kenzo from SEBP and Financière Truffaut for about $80 million. From 1995, Kenzo also produced Kenzo Studio, a line was produced through a licensing agreement with the Bonaventure Group. While Kenzo developed the line's fashion direction, Studio was sold only in the U.S. and Kenzo retail stores in China.

Kenzo Takada stayed at the label for a few years and retired from fashion in 1999 at the age of 60.

Later years

From 1999 until 2003, Gilles Rosier and Roy Krejberg designed the women's and men's lines, respectively.

From 2006 until 2008, over 100 of Kenzo's stores worldwide were refurbished.

From 2008 until 2011, Antonio Marras served as Kenzo's creative director, overseeing the brand in its entirety.{{cite web |url= https://www.thecut.com/2011/07/opening_ceremonys_humberto_leo_1.html |title= Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Are the New Creative Directors of Kenzo |date= 2011 |publisher= The Cut Magazine |access-date=October 29, 2025 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20251029012101/https://www.thecut.com/2011/07/opening_ceremonys_humberto_leo_1.html |archive-date=October 29, 2025 }} By 2011, Kenzo barely broke even, with annual sales estimated at 150 million euros ($197.4 million).

In 2011, Carole Lim and Humberto Leon of Opening Ceremony were appointed co-creative directors. The pair was credited with revitalizing the Kenzo brand and making it appeal to a younger customer, as well as re-defining and expanding the role of a fashion creative director to encompass all elements of creative work at a brand, not just designing the garments.

By 2017, Kenzo built the accessories and shoe business to almost 30 percent of revenues. Lim and Leon exited Kenzo in 2019. Also in 2019, Kenzo ended its distribution agreement with I.T to take back control of its 35 stores in China via a joint venture with the same partner.

Under the creative direction of Felipe Oliveira Baptista from 2019 to 2021, Kenzo launched a line of men's and women's sportswear, titled Kenzo Sport. In April 2021, Kenzo said it would part ways with Oliveira Baptista by the end of his term in June.

In September 2021, Kenzo appointed Nigo of A Bathing Ape as their new artistic director.

Other activities

From 2010 to 2018, Kenzo worked with French manufacturer L'Amy on the production and distribution of its eyewear collections.

Locations

Kenzo has expanded rapidly in the time since its first American store has opened, as of June 2021 it now operates 6 locations in the US:

• Wynn Las Vegas-3131 Las Vegas Blvd
• New York City The Shops & Restaurants at Hudson Yards-20 Hudson Yards
• SoHo, Manhattan-107 Grand Street
• Beverly Center-8500 Beverly Blvd
• Cabazon-48400 Seminole Dr
• Woodbury Commons (New York)

In the early 2000s, Kenzo pulled out of the American market, closing its flagship stores in Los Angeles (2002) and New York (2003). In June 2020, the brand unveiled a new American flagship store in SoHo, Manhattan.

Additionally it has nearly 145 stores worldwide primarily concentrated in Southeast Asia, Japan and Europe.

Role in popular culture

The character Kenzo Harper in the BBC sitcom My Family is named after the fashion brand. In 2012, designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim unveiled a knitted sweater with a tiger graphic on it for Kenzo's Fall 2012 collection. Leon wanted to make a sweatshirt version of the sweater for him to wear. Despite initial resistance from Kenzo's design team, the tiger sweatshirts became extremely popular, with the initial run of sweatshirts selling out within hours at Kenzo's Paris location. Since 2011, the tiger shirt and clothing designed by Leon and Lim has been worn by celebrities and fashion bloggers including Jay Z, Kevin Hart, Beyoncé, Zooey Deschanel, Swizz Beatz, Selena Gomez, Spike Jonze, Joan Smalls, Lorde, NorthernSound and Rihanna.

Collaborations

In 2016, Kenzo announced its collaboration with H&M. Kenzo X H&M collection was released on November 3, 2016. The fashion house also collaborates with Inglot Cosmetics company, which manufactures make-up products. On March 21, 2018, Kenzo revealed Britney Spears as the face of its new 'La Collection Memento No. 2' campaign. The collaboration, marketed as #KenzoLovesBritney, features a variety of ready-to-wear nostalgic denim pieces for men and women.

Campaigns

Kenzo has been working with several high-profile photographers for its advertisement campaigns, including Jean-Baptiste Mondino (1996–1999), David LaChapelle (2019), Keizō Kitajima (2024) and Bruce Gilden (2025).

For the Fall 2014 collection, Kenzo collaborated with filmmaker David Lynch, who mixed the soundtrack for the show and provided a large sculpture.

For the Fall and Winter 2016 collection, Kenzo produced the campaign film The Realest Real starring Laura Harrier, Mahershala Ali, Natasha Lyonne, and Rowan Blanchard, and directed by Carrie Brownstein. Also in 2016, Sean Baker (The Florida Project, Red Rocket) directed a short film starring model Abbey Lee called Snowbird for Kenzo SS16.

In 2023, Kenzo selected Vernon of South Korean boy band Seventeen as the brand's first global ambassador.

Designers

• Kenzo Takada, 1970–2020
• Gilles Rosier, 2000–2004
• Antonio Marras, 2004–2011
• Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, 2012–2019
• Felipe Oliveira Baptista, 2019–2021
• Nigo, 2021–present

References

References

1. [https://www.kenzo.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-KENZO_XB-Site/en/Stores-AllStores Kenzo store directory].
2. "KENZO SA: Private Company Information - Businessweek". Businessweek.com.
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5. Hebe Dorsey (November 14, 1976), [https://www.nytimes.com/1976/11/14/archives/fashion-kenzo-grows-up.html Fashion: Kenzo Grows Up] ''[[New York Times]]''.
6. Grace Cook (February 1, 2019), [https://www.ft.com/content/a5eea252-140e-11e9-a168-d45595ad076d Kenzo Takada — the journey from ‘Jungle Jap’ to Kenzo] {{Webarchive. link. (February 25, 2020 ''[[Financial Times]]''.)
7. [https://www.upi.com/Archives/1993/08/02/LVMH-buys-Kenzo-apparel-maker/8916744264000/ LVMH buys Kenzo apparel maker] {{Webarchive. link. (June 30, 2020 ''[[United Press International]]'', August 2, 1993.)
8. Janet Ozzard (September 18, 1995), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/article-1138709/ Kenzo Store Aims To Build U.S. Presence] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
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10. [[Suzy Menkes]] (September 18, 1995), [https://www.nytimes.com/1999/09/14/style/IHT-gilles-rosieron-to-kenzo.html Gilles Rosier: On to Kenzo] ''[[International Herald Tribune]]''.
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19. Emily Mercer (August 28, 2020), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kenzo-kenzo-sport-line-1203707212/ Exclusive: Kenzo Introduces Kenzo Sport Line] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
20. Miles Socha (April 26, 2021), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/felipe-oliveira-baptista-leaves-kenzo-1234810008/ Kenzo to Bid Adieu to Felipe Oliveira Baptista] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
21. Miles Socha (September 15, 2021), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/kenzo-new-designer-nigo-1234916824/ Exclusive: Kenzo Picks Streetwear Guru Nigo as Its Next Designer] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
22. Teen, Vanity. (January 23, 2022). "Paris Fashion Week Men FW22 Day 6: Kenzo, Wales Bonner, Sacai Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & New Faces Magazine".
23. Testa, Jessica. (September 15, 2021). "A Hypebeast Comes to the Luxury House". The New York Times.
24. Katya Foreman (14 September 2018), [https://wwd.com/feature/kenzo-and-lamy-group-end-eyewear-partnership-1202812816/ Kenzo and L’Amy Group End Eyewear Partnership] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
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27. Miles Socha (1 March 2004), [https://wwd.com/feature/turning-a-new-leaf-at-kenzo-695499-1935933/ Turning a New Leaf at Kenzo] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
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29. Wightman-Stone, Danielle. (June 30, 2020). "Kenzo unveils first boutique designed by Felipe Oliveira Baptista".
30. Tashjian, Rachel. (June 14, 2019). "A Requiem for the Kenzo Tiger Sweater".
31. Bumpus, Jessica. (March 4, 2012). "Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2012 Ready-To-Wear".
32. Pinson, Laurel. (November 21, 2012). "Anatomy of a Fad: How Kenzo's Tiger Sweater Sold Out in Two Days".
33. Alexander, Ella. (September 11, 2013). "How Long Would You Wait For A Kenzo Tiger Jumper?".
34. Mdudu, Naomi. (March 11, 2014). "Kenzo: It began with a simple sweater…".
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39. "About Inglot".
40. Bobb, Brooke. (March 20, 2018). "Britney Spears On Her Kenzo Campaign And How She Defines Mum Fashion".
41. Jensen, Erin. (March 20, 2018). "Kenzo is getting a 'Piece of' Britney Spears, the face of its La Collection Memento No. 2".
42. Samantha Conti, Katherine Weisman, Melissa Drier and James Fallon (7 August 1996), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/article-1131011/ Harbingers of Spring] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
43. Jean E. Palmieri (7 January 2019), [https://wwd.com/feature/kenzo-taps-david-lachapelle-to-shoot-spring-campaign-1202944802/ Kenzo Taps David LaChapelle to Shoot Spring Campaign] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
44. Miles Socha (19 February 2024), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kenzo-spring-campaign-paris-1236193885/ EXCLUSIVE: Nigo Picks Iconic Paris Spots for Kenzo’s Latest Campaign] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
45. Miles Socha (1 September 2025), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/kenzo-fall-2025-campaign-gilden-1238091424/ EXCLUSIVE: Kenzo Hired a Street Photographer for Latest Campaign] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''.
46. Phelps, Nicole. (March 2, 2014). "Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear: Kenzo".
47. (November 7, 2016). "The Realest Real - Autumn Winter 2016 Collection {{!}} KENZO".
48. Simpson, Ashley W.. (September 14, 2016). "Kenzo Premieres Their Latest Campaign Film, The Realest Real".
49. Hustle, Indie Film. (December 7, 2021). "Sean Baker's iPhone Short Film: Snowbird - Indie Film Hustle".
50. (June 23, 2023). "SEVENTEEN's Vernon is Kenzo's first global brand ambassador".
51. (July 1, 2019). "Felipe Oliveira Baptista quitte la direction artistique de Kenzo".