Johnson City, Tennessee

History

William Bean, traditionally recognized as Tennessee's first white settler, built his cabin along Boone's Creek near Johnson City in 1769. In the 1780s, Colonel John Tipton established a farm (now the Tipton-Haynes State Historic Site) just outside what is now Johnson City. During the State of Franklin movement, Tipton was a leader of the loyalist faction, residents of the region who wanted to remain part of North Carolina rather than form a separate state. In February 1788, an armed engagement took place at Tipton's farm between Tipton and his men and the forces led by John Sevier, the leader of the Franklin faction.

Founded in 1856 by Henry Johnson as a railroad station called "Johnson's Depot", Johnson City became a major rail hub for the Southeast, as three railway lines crossed in the downtown area.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Johnson City served as headquarters for the narrow gauge East Tennessee and Western North Carolina Railroad (the ET&WNC, nicknamed "Tweetsie") and the standard gauge Clinchfield Railroad. Both rail systems featured excursion trips through scenic portions of the Blue Ridge Mountains and were engineering marvels of railway construction. The Southern Railway (now Norfolk Southern) also passes through the city.

During the American Civil War, before it was formally incorporated in 1869, the town's name was briefly changed to "Haynesville" in honor of Confederate Senator Landon Carter Haynes.

Henry Johnson's name was quickly restored following the war, with Johnson elected as the city's first mayor on January 3, 1870. The town grew rapidly from 1870 until 1890 as railroad and mining interests flourished. But the national depression of 1893, which caused many railway failures (including the Charleston, Cincinnati and Chicago Railroad or "3-Cs", a predecessor of the Clinchfield), and resulting financial panic halted Johnson City's boom town momentum.

In 1901, the Mountain Branch of the National Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers (now the U.S. Veterans Affairs Medical Center and National Cemetery), Mountain Home, Tennessee was created by an act of Congress introduced by Walter P. Brownlow. Johnson City began growing rapidly and became Tennessee's fifth-largest city by 1930.

Together with neighboring Bristol, Johnson City was a hotbed for old-time music. It hosted Columbia Records recording sessions in 1928 known as the Johnson City Sessions. Native son "Fiddlin' Charlie" Bowman became a national recording star via these sessions. The Fountain Square area downtown featured a host of local and traveling street entertainers, including Blind Lemon Jefferson.

During the 1920s and the Prohibition era, Johnson City's ties to the bootlegging activity of the Appalachian Mountains earned the city the nickname of "Little Chicago".

For many years, the city had a municipal "privilege tax" on carnival shows, in an attempt to dissuade traveling circuses and other transient entertainment businesses from doing business in town. The use of drums by merchants to draw attention to their goods is prohibited. Title Six, Section 106 of the city's municipal code, the so-called "Barney Fife" ordinance, empowers the city's police force to draft into involuntary service as many of the town's citizens as necessary to aid police in making arrests and preventing or quelling riots, unlawful assemblies, or breaches of peace.

Geography

Johnson City is in northeastern Washington County,

According to the United States Census Bureau, the city has an area of 112.1 sqkm, of which 111.2 sqkm is land and 0.8 sqkm, or 0.75 percent, is water.

Buffalo Mountain, a ridge over 2700 ft high, is a city park on the south side of town. The Watauga River arm of Boone Lake, a Tennessee Valley Authority reservoir, is partly within the city limits.

Climate

Johnson City has a humid subtropical climate (Köppen Cfa), with warm summers and cool winters. Temperatures in Johnson City are moderated somewhat by its elevation and proximity to the Appalachian Mountains. Precipitation is abundant, with an average of 45.22 in. Summer is typically the wettest part of the year, while early autumn is considerably drier. Snowfall is moderate and sporadic, with an average of 15.6 in.

Demographics

2020 census

As of the 2020 United States census, there were 71,046 people, 30,724 households, and 15,904 families residing in the city.

2000 census

As of the census of 2000, there were 55,469 people, 23,720 households, and 14,018 families residing in the city. The population density was 1,412.4 per square mile. There were 25,730 housing units at an average density of 655.1 /mi2. The racial makeup of the city was 90.09 percent white, 6.40 percent African American, 0.26% Native American, 1.22 percent Asian, 0.02 percent Pacific Islander, 0.69 percent from other races, and 1.32 percent from two or more races. Hispanic or Latino people of any race were 1.89 percent of the population.

There were 23,720 households, out of which 25.0 percent had children under the age of 18 living with them, 44.1 percent were married couples living together, 11.6 percent had a female householder with no husband present, and 40.9 percent were non-families. 33.9 percent of all households were made up of individuals, and 11.5 percent had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.20, and the average family size was 2.82.

In the city, the population was spread out, with 19.8 percent under the age of 18, 13.7 percent from 18 to 24, 28.1 percent from 25 to 44, 22.5 percent from 45 to 64, and 15.9 percent who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 37 years. For every 100 females, there were 91.1 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 88.0 males.

The median income for a household in the city was $30,835, and the median income for a family was $40,977. Males had a median income of $31,326 versus $22,150 for females. The per capita income for the city was $20,364. About 11.4 percent of families and 15.9 percent of the population were below the poverty line, including 18.9 percent of those under age 18 and 12.7 percent of those age 65 or over.

Economy

Johnson City is an economic hub largely fueled by East Tennessee State University and the medical "Med-Tech" corridor, anchored by the Johnson City Medical Center and Niswonger Children's Hospital, Franklin Woods Community Hospital, ETSU's Gatton College of Pharmacy, and ETSU's Quillen College of Medicine.

The citrus soda Mountain Dew originated in Johnson City. In 2012, PepsiCo announced a new malt-flavored version of the drink named Mountain Dew Johnson City Gold.

Johnson City and its metropolitan area had a gross metropolitan product of in 2019.

Major companies headquartered in Johnson City

• American Water Heater Company (owned by A.O. Smith Corp.)
• Advanced Call Center Technologies
• Cantech Industries
• General Shale (owned by Wienerberger)
• LPI, Inc.
• Moody Dunbar, Inc.
• Mullican Flooring
• R.A. Colby, Inc.
• TPI Corporation
• VCV Rack

Other companies

• JD Squared, manufacturer of tube and pipe benders and other fabrication tools

Arts and culture

Public art

Public art includes 12 to 15 sculptures that change every two years. Also, 24 bronze statuettes of animals indigenous to the Appalachian Highlands, cast by faculty and students at ETSU, are installed in various downtown locations; staff at the Johnson City Public Library created a list of clues to aid in the search for all the animals. Other public art includes banners and art on light poles and traffic boxes, and quote stones along sidewalks and paths. Two annual art events take place in the city.

Shopping

As a regional hub for a four-state area, Johnson City is home to a large variety of retail businesses, from well-known national chains to local boutiques and galleries.

The Mall at Johnson City is the city's only enclosed shopping mall. Much of the new retail development is in North Johnson City, along State of Franklin Road. Johnson City Crossings is the largest of these developments.

Points of interest

• Buffalo Mountain Park
• East Tennessee State University Arboretum
• ETSU/Mountain States Health Alliance Athletic Center
• Founders Park
• Freedom Hall Civic Center
• Johnson City STOLport
• Thomas Stadium, baseball venue
• Tipton-Haynes State Historic Site
• Tweetsie Trail
• Watauga River
• William B. Greene Jr. Stadium

Sports

Several Minor League Baseball teams have been based in Johnson City. Professional baseball was first played in the city by the Johnson City Soldiers in the Southeastern League in 1910. The city's longest-running team was the Johnson City Cardinals, who played in the Appalachian League as the Rookie affiliate of the St. Louis Cardinals from 1975 to 2020.

Government

In the United States House of Representatives, Johnson City is represented by Republican Diana Harshbarger of the 1st district.

Johnson City is run by a five-person board of commissioners. The mayor is John Hunter; the city manager is Cathy Ball.

Education

Colleges and universities

East Tennessee State University has around 16,000 students in addition to a K-12 University School, a laboratory school of about 540 students. University School was the first laboratory school in the nation to adopt a year-round academic schedule.

Milligan University is just outside the city limits in Carter County, and has about 1,200 students in undergraduate and graduate programs.

Northeast State Community College has renovated a building in downtown Johnson City for use as a new satellite teaching site. After a dispute over the leasing amount being increased from $1,000/month to nearly $30,000/month, Northeast State decided not to renew their lease in 2023.

This building is now being utilized by East Tennessee State University to house the Department of Biological Sciences whilst Brown Hall, the main academic hall for the department on ETSU's main campus, goes through a new phase of renovations. Classes will begin being offered at this downtown satellite campus by ETSU in the Fall 2025 semester.

Tusculum University has a center on the north side of Johnson City in the Boones Creek area.

K-12 schools

Within Washington County, the vast majority of the city is in the Johnson City Independent School District, while small parts of the city are in the Washington County School District.

The portion in Carter County is within the Carter County School District. The portion in Sullivan County is within the Sullivan County School District.

Schools in the Johnson City School System include:

Elementary schools

Middle schools

• Indian Trail Middle School
• Liberty Bell Middle School

High schools

• Science Hill High School
• University School (K-12)

Private schools

• Ashley Academy (PreK-8)
• St. Mary's (K-8)
• Providence Academy (K-12)
• Tri-Cities Christian Schools (PreK-12)

Infrastructure

Transportation

Johnson City is served by Tri-Cities Regional Airport (IATA Code TRI) and Johnson City Airport (0A4) in Watauga.

Highways

• Interstate 26
• U.S. Route 19W
• U.S. Route 11E
• U.S. Route 321
• U.S. Route 23

Public transport

Johnson City Transit operates a system of buses inside the city limits, including BucShot, a system serving the greater ETSU campus.

The Southern Railway used to serve Johnson City with several trains: the Birmingham Special (ended 1970), the Pelican (ended 1970) and the Tennessean (ended 1968).

Hospitals

Johnson City serves as a regional medical center for northeast Tennessee and southwest Virginia, along with parts of western North Carolina and southeastern Kentucky.

Johnson City Medical Center includes a level 1 trauma center, the Niswonger Children's Hospital, and Woodridge Hospital, an inpatient psychiatric hospital.

Franklin Woods Community Hospital is an 80-bed hospital with emergency services.

James H. and Cecile C. Quillen Rehabilitation Hospital serves patients who have suffered debilitating trauma, including stroke and brain-spine injuries.

Notable people

• Bill Bain, management consultant, one of the founders of the management consultancy Bain & Company
• Sam Bettens, lead singer of rock band K's Choice; Johnson City firefighter for a year
• Jerry Blevins, Major League Baseball pitcher (New York Mets)
• Ernie Bowman, Major League Baseball (San Francisco Giants, 1961–63)
• Joe Bowman, bootmaker and marksman; guardian of western culture
• Mike Brown, American Motorcyclist Association rider
• Jonny Campbell, soccer player
• Jo Carson, playwright and author
• George Lafayette Carter, entrepreneur
• David Cash, professional wrestler
• David Cole, founding member of C+C Music Factory
• Patrick J. Cronin, television and film actor, a professor in English and Theater at ETSU
• Matt Czuchry, actor (Gilmore Girls), attended Science Hill High School
• David Davis, Tennessee state senator; U.S. congressman 2007–2009
• Lindsay Ellis, film critic, YouTuber, cinematographer, and author
• Ray Flynn, miler with 89 sub-four-minute miles; graduated ETSU, president/CEO of Flynn Sports Management
• Aubrayo Franklin, defensive tackle, San Francisco 49ers
• Wyck Godfrey, film producer and studio executive
• Jake Grove, born in Johnson City; played center for Virginia Tech, won the Rimington Trophy, played for the Miami Dolphins
• Del Harris, NBA coach, attended Milligan College
• Holly Herndon, electronic musician
• Mark Herring, Attorney General of Virginia
• Herman Hickman, College Football Hall of Fame player for the Tennessee Vols and NFL player.
• Jim Hickman, professional baseball player, played outfield for the Brooklyn Dodgers
• Steven James, novelist, attended ETSU
• Drew Johnson, political commentator and columnist, and founder of the Beacon Center of Tennessee
• Amythyst Kiah, Americana singer/songwriter
• Brownie King, NASCAR driver
• Catherine Marshall, author, born in Johnson City, later worked on her novel Christy while staying with relatives in town
• John Alan Maxwell, artist and illustrator, raised in Johnson City, illustrated for Pearl S. Buck, John Steinbeck, and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, spent his last 18 years in Johnson City; permanent collection housed at Carroll Reece Museum at ETSU
• Johnny Miller, NASCAR driver
• Daniel Norris, Major League Baseball, debuted with the Toronto Blue Jays in 2014
• Eureka O'Hara, drag queen and television personality
• Mike Potter, NASCAR driver
• David Phil Roe, mayor of Johnson City, and representative for Tennessee's 1st congressional district 2009–2021
• Bryan Lewis Saunders, artist and writer, ETSU alumnus
• Connie Saylor, NASCAR driver and Johnson City business owner
• Constance Shulman, actress, singer, producer
• Steve Spurrier, Heisman Trophy-winning quarterback and College Football Hall of Fame coach, spent most of his childhood in Johnson City and attended Science Hill High School; namesake of the school's football field
• Robert Love Taylor and Alfred A. Taylor, brothers who were both governor of Tennessee; each owned and resided in Robins' Roost, historic house on South Roan Street
• Brad Teague, NASCAR driver
• Phyllis Tickle, prominent author on religion and spirituality
• Ed Whitson, MLB pitcher known for a brief but colorful stint with the Yankees in the 1980s
• Samuel Cole Williams, historian, jurist, first dean of the Emory University School of Law
• Van Williams, NFL running back and kick returner for Buffalo Bills, All-American at Carson-Newman, attended Science Hill High School

Sister cities

Johnson City's sister cities are:

• ECU Guaranda, Ecuador
• SWE Ronneby, Sweden
• RUS Rybinsk, Russia
• GER Teterow, Germany

References

;General

;Specific

• Greater Johnson City, by Ray Stahl, 1986.
• A History of Johnson City, Tennessee and its Environs, by Samuel Cole Williams, 1940.
• History of Washington County, Tennessee, by Joyce and Gene Cox, Editors, 2001.
• Fiddlin' Charlie Bowman, by Bob L. Cox, University of Tennessee Press, 2007.
• The Railroads of Johnson City, by Johnny Graybeal, Tar Heel Press, 2007.

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