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Herringbone (cloth)

Fabric woven in a herringbone twill weave


Fabric woven in a herringbone twill weave

Reversible camouflage HBTs
The Swiss Kampfanzug 57/70 field uniform was made from a twill material

Herringbone, also called broken twill weave, describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern usually found in twill fabric. It is distinguished from a plain chevron by the break at reversal, which makes it resemble a broken zigzag. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish.{{cite web | access-date = 2008-11-24 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111005182104/http://style.polo.com/glossary/default.asp?letter=H |archive-date=2011-10-05 |url-status=dead}} Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular cloths used for suits and outerwear.{{Cite web | author-link = Fashion Institute of Technology | access-date = 2008-11-24 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130605113404/http://www3.fitnyc.edu/museum/TailorsArt/MenswearFabricsGlossary.htm |archive-date=2013-06-05 |url-status=dead}} Tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern.

Fatigue uniforms made from cotton in this weave were used by several militaries during and after World War II; in US use, they were often called HBTs.

History

Various herringbone weaves have been found in antiquity:

  • A pair of woolen leggings found in the permafrost of the Italian-Austrian Alps have a 2:2 herringbone weave, dating to 800 to 500 BC.
  • A dark blue cloth with a 2:2 herringbone weave was found at Murabba'at Cave in Israel, from the Roman period.
  • A textile with a 2:2 herringbone weave was found at Pompeii, from 79 AD.
  • An illustration of a cloth having a herringbone weave from Antinoöpolis in Greece from 130 AD.
  • The Falkirk Tartan, a wool 2:2 herringbone tartan from around 240 AD.
  • Similar fabric fragments found at Vindolanda, south of Hadrian's Wall in England.

References

References

  1. Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey. (1988). "Fairchild's dictionary of fashion". Fairchild Publications.
  2. (1992). "U.S. Army Uniforms of the Korean War". Stackpole Books.
  3. (2009-08-19). "Storming Normandy in a World War II Jeep". Hearst Magazine Media, Inc..
  4. Fulbright, Diana. (2010). "Proceedings of the International Workshop on the Scientific Approach to the Acheiropoietos Images". [[ENEA (Italy).
  5. Shamir, Orit. (2015). "A burial textile from the first century CE in Jerusalem compared to roman textiles in the land of Israel and the Turin Shroud". EDP Sciences.
  6. Tyrer, John. (December 1981). "Looking at the Turin Shroud as a Textile".
  7. Bailey, Geoff P.. (2019). "A History of Falkirk in 10 ½ Objects". Falkirk Local History Society.
  8. "Tartan Details - Falkirk".
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