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Fragrance compound
Chemical compound that has a smell or odor
Chemical compound that has a smell or odor
A fragrance compound (or fragrance) is a chemical compound with a pleasant odor. Fragrances affect only the sense of smell, whereas flavors can affect both the sense of taste and smell. Fragrances are often mixtures of individual fragrance compounds. Although many fragrances are derived from natural sources, many are synthetic. Fragrances are widely used in cosmetics and are the basis for a large industry.
Occurrence
For an individual chemical or class of chemical compounds to impart a smell or fragrance, it must be sufficiently volatile for transmission via the air to the olfactory system in the upper part of the nose. Generally, fragrance compounds have molecular weights of less than 310.
Fragrance compounds are found in various foods, such as fruits and their peels, wine, spices, floral scent, perfumes, fragrance oils, and essential oils. For example, many form during the ripening of fruits and other crops. Wines have more than 100 aromas that form as byproducts of fermentation. Also, many of the aroma compounds play a significant role in the production of compounds used in the food service industry to flavor, improve, and generally increase the appeal of their products.
History, biochemistry, economics

The technology of fragrances came with the invention of distillation, which allowed to be concentrated and sometimes even separated into individual components. The purification of cinnamaldehyde, the first single component fragrance, marked the beginning of the fragrance and flavor industries. Other single component fragrance compounds that were purified in the 19th century include benzaldehyde, methyl salicylate (oil of wintergreen), and vanillin. Somewhat in step with the synthetic dye industry, the fragrance and flavor industry was established. Many fragrance compounds were prepared synthetically. Spectroscopic methods coupled with various separation techniques allowed the identification of traces of aroma compounds (e.g. in wines, flower extracts, etc). Another relevant invention is gas chromatography, especially when coupled to detection by humans, i.e. gas chromatography-olfactometry. Techniques were also developed to characterize and synthesize individual enantiomers of chiral aromatic compounds.
Animals, by the process of olfaction, detect aromas using olfactory receptors located on the surface of the olfactory epithelium in the nasal cavity. Studies on cyclopentadecanone ("musk-ketone") reveal that the odors of some compounds are noticeably affected by deuteration.
Various fragrant fruits are commercially cultivated to have appealing or intensified aromas.
Fragrance compounds classified by chemical structure
In 2010, the International Fragrance Association published a list of 3,059 chemicals used in 2011 based on a voluntary survey of its members, identifying about 90% of the world's production volume of fragrances.
Esters
| Compound name | Fragrance | Natural occurrence | Chemical structure | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Geranyl acetate | Fruity, | |||||
| Floral | Rose | [[File:Geranyl acetate skeletal.svg | x40px | center]] | ||
| Methyl formate | Ethereal | synthetic | [[File:Structural formula of methyl formate.svg | x40px | center]] | |
| Methyl acetate | Sweet, nail polish | |||||
| Solvent | synthetic | [[File:Methyl-acetate-2D-skeletal.svg | x40px | center]] | ||
| Fructone | fruity, apple-like | synthetic | [[File:Fructone_chemical_structure.png | 100px | center]] | |
| Ethyl methylphenylglycidate | Strawberry | synthetic | [[File:Strawberry aldehyde.png | 100px | center]] | |
| Methyl propionate | ||||||
| Sweet, fruity, rum-like | [[File:Methyl propionate.svg | x40px | center]] | |||
| Methyl butyrate | ||||||
| Fruity | Apple | |||||
| Pineapple | [[File:Buttersauremethylester.svg | x40px | center]] | |||
| Ethyl acetate | Sweet, solvent | Wine | [[File:Ethyl-acetate-2D-skeletal.svg | x40px | center]] | |
| Ethyl butyrate | ||||||
| Fruity | Orange, Pineapple | [[File:Ethyl butyrate2.svg | x40px | center]] | ||
| Isoamyl acetate | Fruity, Banana, | |||||
| Pear | Banana plant | [[File:Isoamyl acetate.svg | x40px | center]] | ||
| Pentyl butyrate | ||||||
| Fruity | Pear | |||||
| Apricot | [[File:Pentyl butyrate.svg | x40px | center]] | |||
| Pentyl pentanoate | Fruity | Apple | [[File:Pentyl pentanoate.svg | x40px | center]] | |
| Octyl acetate | Fruity | Orange | [[File:Octyl acetate.svg | x40px | center]] | |
| Benzyl acetate | Fruity, Strawberry | Strawberries | [[File:Benzyl acetate-structure.svg | x40px | center]] | |
| Methyl anthranilate | Fruity | Grape | [[File:Methyl anthranilate.svg | x50px | center]] | |
| Methyl salicylate | Minty, root beer | Wintergreen | [[File:Methyl salicylate.svg | x50px | center]] | |
| Hexyl acetate | Floral, Fruity | Apple, Plum | [[File:Hexyl_acetate.png | x50px | center]] |
Linear terpenes
| Compound name | Fragrance | Natural occurrence | Chemical structure | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Myrcene | Woody, complex | Verbena, Bay leaf | [[File:Myrcene beta straight acsv.svg | 140px | center]] |
| Geraniol | Rose, flowery | Geranium, Lemon | [[File:Geraniol structure.png | center | 140px]] |
| Nerol | Sweet rose, flowery | Neroli, Lemongrass | [[File:Nerol structure.svg | 140px | center]] |
| Citral, lemonal | |||||
| Geranial, neral | Lemon | Lemon myrtle, Lemongrass | [[File:Geranial structure.png | 140px | center]] |
| Citronellal | Lemon | Lemongrass | [[File:Citronellal-2D-skeletal.png | 140px | center]] |
| Citronellol | Lemon | Lemongrass, rose | |||
| Pelargonium | [[File:Citronellol-2D-skeletal.png | 140px | center]] | ||
| Linalool | Floral, sweet | ||||
| Woody | Coriander, Sweet basil, Lavender, Honeysuckle | [[File:Linalool skeletal.svg | 140px | center]] | |
| Nerolidol | Woody, fresh bark | Neroli, ginger | |||
| Jasmine | [[File:Nerolidol.png | 140px | center]] | ||
| Ocimene | Fruity, Floral | Mango, Curcuma amada | [[File:Alpha-ocimene.svg | 140px | center]] |
Cyclic terpenes
| Compound name | Fragrance | Natural occurrence | Chemical structure | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Limonene | Orange | Orange, lemon | [[File:Limonene-2D-skeletal.svg | x60px | center]] |
| Camphor | Camphor | Camphor laurel | [[File:Camphor structure.png | x60px | center]] |
| Menthol | Menthol | Mentha | [[File:Menthol skeletal.svg | x60px | center]] |
| Carvone1 | Caraway or Spearmint | Caraway, dill, | |||
| spearmint | [[File:Carvone.svg | x60px | center]] | ||
| Terpineol | Lilac | Lilac, cajuput | [[File:Terpineol alpha.svg | x60px | center]] |
| alpha-Ionone | Violet, woody | Violet | [[File:Alpha-ionone-label.png | x60px | center]] |
| Thujone | Minty | Wormwood, lilac, | |||
| juniper | [[File:Beta-Thujone.svg | x60px | center]] | ||
| Eucalyptol | Eucalyptus | Eucalyptus | [[File:Eucalyptol.png | x60px | center]] |
| Jasmone | spicy, fruity, floral in dilution | Jasmine, Honeysuckle | [[File:Jasmon_structural_formation_V1.svg | x60px | center]] |
Note: Carvone, depending on its chirality, offers two different smells.
Aromatic
| Compound name | Fragrance | Natural occurrence | Chemical structure | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Benzaldehyde | Almond | Bitter almond | [[File:Benzaldehyde.svg | x60px | center]] |
| Eugenol | Clove | Clove | [[File:Eugenol acsv.svg | x60px | center]] |
| Cinnamaldehyde | Cinnamon | Cassia | |||
| Cinnamon | [[File:Zimtaldehyd - cinnamaldehyde.svg | x60px | center]] | ||
| Ethyl maltol | Cooked fruit | ||||
| Caramelized sugar | [[File:Ethyl maltol.png | x60px | center]] | ||
| Vanillin | Vanilla | Vanilla | [[File:Vanillin.svg | x60px | center]] |
| Anisole | Anise | Anise | [[File:Anisol.svg | x60px | center]] |
| Anethole | Anise | Anise | |||
| Sweet basil | [[File:Anethole-structure-skeletal.svg | x60px | center]] | ||
| Estragole | Tarragon | Tarragon | [[File:Estragole acsv.svg | x60px | center]] |
| Thymol | Thyme | Thyme | [[File:Thymol2.svg | x60px | center]] |
Other aroma compounds
Alcohols
- Furaneol (strawberry)
- 1-Hexanol (herbaceous, woody)
- cis-3-Hexen-1-ol (fresh cut grass)
- Menthol (peppermint)
Aldehydes
High concentrations of aldehydes tend to be very pungent and overwhelming, but low concentrations can evoke a wide range of aromas.
- Acetaldehyde (ethereal)
- Hexanal (green, grassy)
- cis-3-Hexenal (green tomatoes)
- Furfural (burnt oats)
- Hexyl cinnamaldehyde
- Isovaleraldehyde – nutty, fruity, cocoa-like
- Anisic aldehyde – floral, sweet, hawthorn. It is a crucial component of chocolate, vanilla, strawberry, raspberry, apricot, and others.
- Cuminaldehyde – Spicy, cumin-like, green
Ketones
- Dihydrojasmone (fruity woody floral)
- Oct-1-en-3-one (blood, metallic, mushroom-like){{cite journal
- 2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline (fresh bread, jasmine rice)
- 6-Acetyl-2,3,4,5-tetrahydropyridine (fresh bread, tortillas, popcorn)
- Diacetyl (butter flavor)
- Acetoin (butter flavor)
Lactones
- gamma-Decalactone intense peach flavor
- gamma-Nonalactone coconut odor, popular in suntan lotions
- delta-Octalactone creamy note
- Jasmine lactone powerful fatty-fruity peach and apricot
- Massoia lactone powerful creamy coconut
- Wine lactone sweet coconut odor
- Sotolon (maple syrup, curry, fenugreek)
Detection and interpretation
Main article: Olfaction
Fragrances are detected by the nose when the movement of inspired air contacts olfactory sensory neurons, which in humans, number between 6 and 10 million over a surface area of 2.5 cm2 of olfactory epithelium. Fragrance signals are conveyed from the epithelium to the olfactory nerves, and then to the olfactory bulbs, which relay neural impulses about fragrance properties into the primary olfactory cortex of the brain.
Safety and regulation

In 2005–06, fragrance mix was the third-most-prevalent allergen in patch tests (11.5%). 'Fragrance' was voted Allergen of the Year in 2007 by the American Contact Dermatitis Society. An academic study in the United States published in 2016 has shown that "34.7 % of the population reported health problems, such as migraine headaches and respiratory difficulties, when exposed to fragranced products".
The composition of fragrances is usually not disclosed in the label of the products, hiding the actual chemicals of the formula, which raises concerns among some consumers. In the United States, this is because the law regulating cosmetics protects trade secrets.
In the United States, fragrances are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration if present in cosmetics or drugs, by the Consumer Product Safety Commission if present in consumer products. No pre-market approval is required, except for drugs. Fragrances are also generally regulated by the Toxic Substances Control Act of 1976 that "grandfathered" existing chemicals without further review or testing and put the burden of proof that a new substance is not safe on the EPA. The EPA, however, does not conduct independent safety testing but relies on data provided by the manufacturer.
A 2019 study of the top-selling skin moisturizers found 45% of those marketed as "fragrance-free" contained fragrance.
References
References
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- (2015). "Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry".
- (2020-04-14). "Olfactory appraisal of odorants for 100% hydrogen networks". International Journal of Hydrogen Energy.
- (1976). "[Notes about molecular weights of aroma compounds]". Nahrung.
- (2018-10-26). "Answering biological questions by analysis of the strawberry metabolome". Metabolomics.
- (2016-09-30). "Meta-analysis of the core aroma components of grape and wine aroma". Frontiers in Plant Science.
- (1994). "Stereoisomeric flavor compounds. LXX: 1-''p''-menthene-8-thiol: separation and sensory evaluation of the enantiomers by enantioselective gas chromatography-olfactometry". Phytochemical Analysis.
- (5 December 2013). "Gas chromatography analysis with olfactometric detection (GC-O) as a useful methodology for chemical characterization of odorous compounds.". Sensors (Basel, Switzerland).
- (2013). "Molecular-vibration-sensing component in human olfaction". PLOS ONE.
- (2018-03-13). "What do we know about the chemistry of strawberry aroma?". Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.
- (December 2017). "Fragrances and work-related asthma-California surveillance data, 1993-2012.". The Journal of Asthma.
- "IFRA Survey:Transparency List". [[International Fragrance Association.
- (14 August 2023). "Neuroanatomy, Cranial Nerve 1 (Olfactory)". StatPearls, US National Library of Medicine.
- (1 May 2023). "Physiology, Olfactory". StatPearls, US National Library of Medicine.
- (2009). "Patch-test results of the North American Contact Dermatitis Group 2005-2006". Dermatitis: Contact, Atopic, Occupational, Drug.
- (2016). "Fragranced consumer products: exposures and effects from emissions.". Air Quality, Atmosphere, & Health.
- (1 April 2011). "Fragranced consumer products: Chemicals emitted, ingredients unlisted". Environmental Impact Assessment Review.
- (August 22, 2024). "Fragrances in Cosmetics {{!}} FDA".
- (2006). "The hundred-year lie: how food and medicine are destroying your health". Dutton.
- (2 October 2017). "'Hypoallergenic' And 'Fragrance-Free' Moisturizer Claims Are Often False". NPR.
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